Сухой посол ветчины и бекона

[Познышев Вадим]

Перевод статьи г-на Juergen Maurer
Dry curing of ham and bacon
http://www.continentalmeattechnology.co ... ws/news.pl

Соль (содиум хлорид) использовалась как добавка к мясу и рыбе с доисторических времён, изначально, возможно, для придания вкуса. Но с течением времени было открыто и консервирущее свойство соли. Столовая соль может быть засорена другими солями, среди которых могут быть соли азотной кислоты (нитраты). Морская соль имеет относительно высокую концентрацию нитратов. Такое засорение может стать причиной появления реакции с нитратом в виде покраснения мяса (цвет посола - the cure colour) и изменение вкуса (вкус посола - the cure flavour).

Посол мяса также консервирует мясо, делая его безопасным для еды;
придаёт аппетитный розово-красный цвет (покраснение); придайт типичный вкус и мягкую консистенцию мяса.

Мясо практически может быть посолено тремя различными путями. Основная разница между ними заключается в способах посола:
- Сухой посол: солью для посола свежее мясо натирается снаружи и внутри.
-Мокрый посол: впитывание мясом посолочного рассола.
-Шприцевание: посолочныйг рассол механически шприцуется в мясо.

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Cured and especially dry cured ham and bacon are genuine added-value products. Their production requires care, expertise and time.

Initially only nitrate (saltpetre) was used to cure meat. But at the beginning of the 20th century it was realised that it is nitrite, which is responsible for the curing effect and that nitrite is the principal curing substance. Nitrate has to be transformed to nitrite for a cure effect to happen. This transformation (reduction) is done by microorganisms. Today one uses mainly nitrite, because it acts more quickly. Yet in higher concentration nitrite is toxic and its use is therefore legally regulated in many countries.

Nitrite (-NO2) releases nitrogen monoxide (NO). This reacts with myoglobin (muscle colour agent) and haemoglobin (blood colour agent) of the muscle to give the typical red cure colour. This reaction is dependent on factors like temperature, ph-value and the availability of cure-assisting substances like asoorbate (Poekulus).

Nitrite suppresses the growth of food poisoning microorganisms like chloatridium botulinum and salmonellae. Small doses of 80-150 ppm nitrite are sufficient to reduce the development of these organisms significantly. Yet one always has to see this effect in combination with other factors such as water activity, temperature and ph-value (barrier concept).

Curing is a critical, responsible process and can only work successfully, if suitable meat is used, the production conditions are hygienic and the staff is properly trained for the task.

The meat should be used three days after slaughter and one should only use properly trimmed prime cuts. When available mature pigs 7-9 months old should be used. The meat of younger animals can be too light and soft, older meat can be too dry and dark. Three days after slaughter the ph-value should have dropped and stabilised from 7 to around 5.8 to 6.2. Different meat has different cure readiness. DFD meat (dark, firm, dry) has a low reediness. The ph-value remains high and the salt absorption is low. PSE meat (pale, soft, exudative) should also be avoided. Its ph-value is low and there is little chance to achieve good colour and taste. PSE meats readily accept salt and ham and bacon made from it always tastes salty.

Curing, being a critical process, has to be done under very hygienic conditions. The actual process should take place in dedicated, separate rooms. The temperature should be 4-6¼C with not more than 73-80% relative humidity. Care has to be taken when choosing the building material for the curing rooms, because the formation of condensation water has to be avoided.
Any containers should be made of stainless steel, plastic or fibreglass, because they can be cleaned easily.

Those members of staff, who are responsible for the curing process, must be trained properly. They should understand the principles behind the process, and must be able to identify any possible miscures. Above all they must be trained in meat identification and selection and must give priority to hygiene in order to ensure a consistently high quality of the end product.


Dry curing

Once the blend of curing salt, cure aids and seasonings (optional) is prepared according to a recipe, it is rubbed onto and into the meat at the correct usage rate. The salted meat is then packed tightly into the cure containers. The salt will extract water from the meat. It is important that this water is drained through a plug hole so that there is as little liquid as possible in the container.

Depending on size, the meat should be rearranged once or twice a week so that the pieces from the middle end up on the outside.
Alternatively for operations on a smaller scale it is possible to pack the salted meat pieces into vacuum bags and draw a vacuum. Then the bags are stored on a shelf and turned once or twice a week to avoid pressure spots. This also has the advantage, that the process might be accelerated. Any excess fluid inside the bag should be removed from time to time. After the initial curing time the meat is taken out of the container or bag and stored in layers on a stainless steel shelf inside the dedicated curing room ("afterburn") and then matured. Any mould growth should be suppressed with potassium solution.
If the meat is to be smoked, it is important that the surface is dried before the application of smoke. Otherwise the smoke particles will not stick sufficiently to the meat surface.